Once you get past the somewhat hostile reception at the Maseru border post, Lesotho is filled with so many surprises. Yet, the custom officials are your first encounter with the country, the first faces you come across — and, sadly, it seems that only the most hardened and uncompassionate people get the job.

In fact, the experience may leave you so deflated that you’ll consider making a U-turn back home.

In my unfortunate encounter, after jumping through many documentation hoops, I get stuck on the vaccination certificate of my 10-year-old son. The officials will not hear anything about how children that young are not yet vaccinated in South Africa. According to their rules, at 10, children pose such a major risk that they won’t even let them into their country.

After much toing and froing, begging and pleading, one of them takes me aside and asks for a bribe. I have R70 on me, but he dismisses this with a laugh and condemns me to spending the night in the parking lot — perhaps the morning shift will do me a favour and let us in, he says.

Frustrated, I end up calling a family member who lives close to the border. He arrives in 15 minutes and disappears into the office. We are told to proceed, a whole three hours later. I never ask how he negotiated our freedom, he only gives me a knowing and apologetic look.

The treasure trove that brings me to Lesotho is in the small village of Morija (not be mistaken with Moria, famous for the ZCC pilgrimage in Limpopo). Morija should have its own pilgrimage for those who value history. The Morija Museum and Archives has records dating back to the 1700s. Of particular interest to me is the missionary work of the Paris Evangelical Mission Society. These are the missionaries who brought Christianity to Basotho and composed many of the hymns we sing at churches, weddings, parties, and funerals. In addition, the works of Basotho foundational writers Azariel Sekese, Thomas Mofolo, and Everitt Segoete are stored here.

The Morija Printing Works, down the road from the museum, is still in operation. This is where the iconic Leselinyana la Lesotho newspaper, founded by missionary Adolphe Mabille, was printed.

Perhaps more famously, the Lifela tsa Sione hymn books that travelled all over Southern Africa, spreading Sesotho hymns, are printed here, as are Sesotho bibles. At its height, some 32 languages were printed at Morija — even more than at the famous Lovedale.

The Morija Sesuto Book Depot is a dream for those who enjoy historical writings. Alongside the works of the foundational writers it also has the compositions of Pulumo Mohapeloa, the first Sesotho-English dictionary, compiled by Mabille, and many more short stories and litshomo by Basotho writers.

The Lesotho Evangelical Church of Southern Africa, a direct descendant of the French missionaries’ work, was built by Thomas Arbousset in the 1800s and still stands majestically in the middle of Morija. Nearby is Maeder House, the oldest standing building in Lesotho, dating back to 1843.

Travelling northwards, I end up in Thaba Bosiu. This is where the founder of Basotho nation, Moshoeshoe, settled in 1824 and constructed a people with a language, identity, and pride.

The significance of Thaba Bosiu is overwhelming. It is the root of both Basotho nationhood and Basotho Christianity. It is here that the original missionaries — Eugene Casalis, Arbousset, and Constant Gosselin — met King Moshoeshoe. And it is here that Moshoeshoe descended from Thaba Bosiu for Sunday worship. Basotho were baptised and hymns were written, inspired by the landscape around Thaba Bosiu.

Imagine my surprise to find the resting place of the famous singer Tsepo Tshola in the new heroes’ acre under construction.

A climb up Thaba Bosiu is as much a spiritual as a physical exercise. From the mountain top there are unfettered views of Basotho villages, plains, peaks, and vegetation stretching as far as the eye can see — this is where Moshoeshoe used to sit and survey all that he ruled.

Words cannot describe the feeling of standing at the tomb of Moshoeshoe. History has never felt so close, touching the resting place of an African giant. Moshoeshoe II is buried nearby, along with many other Basotho chiefs and leaders.

Drinking from seliba sa ‘Mamohato is being in communion with the ancestors. ‘Mamohato was one of the principal wives of Moshoeshoe and the water from her well is the coolest, sweetest, and most calming.

Further on we get to the khotla of Moshoeshoe, where he held court. And a few steps from there is the house of ‘Mamohato and then of Moshoeshoe. So sacred is the space that people travel from all over the world to leave notes with their wishes, dreams, and pleas for good health, success, and prosperity.

Thaba Bosiu Cultural Village has modern amenities such as underfloor heating and WiFi, and all the comforts of a 3- or 4-star establishment. It provides education through experience, with most of the Basotho clans represented by homesteads, giving a glimpse into how our ancestors lived many centuries ago.

Lesotho is slowly waking up to its tourism potential. I only travelled to the two villages, but there is much more to be said about places such as the Afriski ski resort, the stunning Maletsunyane Falls at Semonkong, the Maluti range around Mokhotlong, Katse Dam near Thaba Tseka, and many more. The people are beautiful and steeped in their culture and identity, signified by blankets and mokorotlo, the shepherds with sticks and blankets, the women (and men) in their finest, accessorised with beautiful blankets. It’s a heritage spectacle to behold.

However, if officials continue to make it difficult for tourists to enter and demand bribes at every turn, all of this potential may go to waste.