Just dandy: Classic gentleman and old-school grooming resurgence

If this year’s Met Gala is anything to go by, the classic gentleman and old-school grooming are gearing up for a resurgence.

The much-anticipated gala theme — Superfine: Tailoring Black Style — was an ode to Black dandyism, an African-American cultural movement dating back to the 19th century that also had some roots in Central Africa with the rise of Les Sapeurs.

As a response to slavery and racial discrimination, Black men adopted the European concept of dandyism as a way to used clothes, impeccable grooming, and self-expression to counteract societal limitations, exercise autonomy, reclaim a sense of dignity, and redefine what it meant to be a Black man.

Ranging from zoot suits to perfectly coiffed hair, dandyism was all about expressing a strong sense of individuality and pride by dressing to the nines.

Today, touches of dandyism can be seen in tastemakers such as Dapper Dan and musician Tyler, The Creator, giving new life to the aesthetic as it merges with an effortless, Gen-Z cool for a refreshing reinterpretation.

Trending: The modern dandy. Lean into old-school barbering and dapper trims.

Bearded excellence: Despite dandyism being associated with a clean-shaven gent — or, at most a neatly trimmed pencil moustache — the modern take brings the bearded gang into that culture. A full beard has become a popular choice over the years and dabbling in dandyism doesn’t mean going for the chop. Apply the principle of “impeccable grooming” and go for one that is combed out, neatly trimmed, and finished off with a nourishing oil.

Wavy rows: Rappers ASAP Rocky and Pusha T added a twist to a familiar staple at the Met Gala. Merging 1920s finger waves with the street-culture cool of cornrows, Rocky sported cornrows woven intricately along the scalp and hairline, mimicking the look of retro finger waves, and finished off with kiss curls to tame the edges. Pusha T went down a simpler but still effective route with graphic cornrows that mixed sharp angles with more rounded, fluid wavy braids.

Side piece: When it comes to Black dandyism, clean and sharp is always the memo and no one understood the assignment better than actor Tramell Tillman, who gave the classic side part a modern revival with defined curls created using the shingling method. This technique involves defining curls by working a curl activator or gel product into sections of hair and using a fine-toothed comb in a twisting motion to distribute the product and define curls.

Classic man: Take your cue from actor Jeremy Pope and musician Jidenna circa his “Classic Man” era and tap into the mood of the 1920s dapper gentleman. Think meticulously styled waved hair, clean shaven or with sharply trimmed facial hair, and oozing swag.

Pope took it one step further with black guy liner smudged into the waterline of the eyes to create a defined, smouldering gaze.

3 ways to: Superfine details

Complement a dandy grooming routine with these three finishing touches.

Do invest in a super-nourishing hand cream. Dandyism is in the details, so make sure you’re not caught with rough, dry hands. Use a shea-butter hand cream to ensure that you’re confident when going in for that handshake.

Don’t neglect a consistent skincare routine. Having a fresh trim and style is great and all but adding healthy-looking skin to the equation can make all the difference. Cleanse, treat, moisturise, and apply SPF daily to maintain a radiant complexion.

Do curate your own signature scent. Whether you layer multiple fragrances or really home in on a favourite one, having a signature fragrance is the ultimate mark of a sophisticated gent. Try going for a nuanced, gender-neutral scent profile that blends contrasting notes for an attention-grabbing trail.