Big collab for fashion designer Mandla Thabethe

Streetwear designer Mandla Thabethe – through his fashion label, Project Inflamed – takes pride in knowing his clothing reflects the experience of the everyday South African.    

For the 33-year-old from Orlando West, Soweto, his approach to fashion has been avoiding to showcase on the runways of local fashion weeks. But when German shoe brand Birkenstock called him, challenging him with a unique runway experience, Thabethe rose to the occasion.

He was tasked with styling his streetwear pieces with a pair of the classic footwear adored for its contoured cork footbeds at the Birkenstock Art and Sole concept store launch. Located at 44 Stanley in Braamfontein Werf, Joburg, the store forms part of the local celebration for Birkenstock’s 250th anniversary.

“The way I present my new designs is on the street because it’s an everyday life. Everyone on the streets can relate to that; people can see themselves wearing our clothes and walking in the streets on a day-to-day basis,” says Thabethe.     

“I don’t showcase my clothing in real time; I photograph them and then take them out to be bought by customers. From the runway showcase [with Birkenstock] I got to experience how it would be if I ever had to have a fashion show. It was an experience, though it was equally very stressful.”

Thabethe was studying to be a teacher specialising in mathematics and life orientation when he found his groove for fashion in the corridors of the University of Johannesburg in 2016. He launched his accessories brand before jumping foot-first into fashion design. He has since cemented his fashion-dom in a brick-and-mortar studio at Maboneng.

On the evening of the showcase, Thabethe’s designs wove through the audience in vibrant colourways, unique print work and distinct fabric textures. Each model walked the showcase in enviable pairs of matching Birks.   

Fashion blogger Ricci-Lee Kalish and musician Zulu Makhathini were a handful of chosen models to walk Thabethe’s showcase. “It [the collection] was made to capture the everyday man on the streets. In the collection is a pattern of Zulu earrings and a comb created by textile designer and brother Viva Thabethe. The logos on the monochrome suiting were handmade and a distinct part of the brand’s signature,” he says.

“The name of the collection [Africa My Love] was inspired by the diversity and colour we have locally and on the continent. I love colour and could never do black all the time. It’s a summer collection – the brighter the better.”

Upon entry at the Birkenstock Art and Sole concept store, guests are accompanied by the “Walk This Way” travelling art installation as they stroll up two flights of stairs and land at the studio. The double-volume art gallery space features a soothing colour palette. The interior’s furniture and décor pieces inspired by the shoe’s materials cork, leather, wood and metal is a collaboration with local contemporary furniture maker Urban Native.

When shoppers purchase shoes at the concept store ,they can own one of the three collectable bespoke box sleeves created by local illustrator and artist Naledi Modupi. “I’ve known about Birkenstock when they first arrived in SA. They had their first store launch in Morningside, which I attended. I fell in love with the shoe and have been a fan since then,” says Thabethe.

“Everyone loved the garments, especially the models who wore the clothing. We were showered with compliments. The reception from the audience was amazing, and I’m so happy about the entire experience. I was overwhelmed.”