Palesa Mokubung makes her mark at the SA Fashion Week

Designer Palesa Mokubung of local label Mantsho marked two decades in the fashion industry with an intimate experience at SA Fashion Week (SAFW) at the weekend.   

The three-day fashion extravaganza that kicked off on Thursday saw A-listers Ama Qamata, Hungani Ndlovu, Nadia Nakai, Pearl Thusi, Zikhona Sodlaka, Luthando "LootLove" Shosha, Pabi Moloi, Jessica Nkosi, Sandile Mahlangu and more in attendance.

“It's not about the number for me," Mokubung told Sowetan. "It’s about every single detail and the decision behind it. It was more about the experience and the end product for me and I was happy with the product.”

Mokubung's show opened with a live performance by the melodic sounds of the jazz musical duo Ayanda Charlie and Ondela Simakuhle of Thesis ZA.   

“I knew that I wanted what I call African opera as a backdrop for the music for the show. I felt the clothes were high-end and haute couture. I wanted a sound that had the same texture the clothes had,” said Mokubung.  

With every new creation, models floated down the ramp in winsome voluminous maxi dresses, textured capes and tulle ballroom skirts with scarlet and golden tweed power suits to break up the silks. Warm honey golds, sandy browns and creamy palette carried the colour theme, weaving in shades of turquoise, grass green and crepe pink.

No Mantsho showcase is complete without a kimono, her portrait monogram print and gathered shoulder ruffle details that have always been synonymous with her brand. “The intention was to showcase 30 looks, but we ended up with 25 looks on the runway,” she said.  

“I called Lucilla Booyzen, the founder of SA Fashion Week, and told her as a solo show I might have a showcase that is shorter than what I would have liked it to be. She said to me, ‘Palesa, don’t worry about that. Designer Clive Rundle’s solo show had 15 pieces. It was a short show but it was the most beautiful collection he had ever put out.’

"Ultimately, it was not about the number of pieces or the duration of the show. It was about the heart and soul that went into every piece.”  

Mokubung’s heartfelt sentiments echoed from the crowd’s applause during the finale and flowed backstage where models continued to cheer and praise her.   

“After 20 years of doing shows, you have got to have some level of showmanship incorporated in the show, especially if it's a solo show. I named the collection Mosa, after my three-month-old daughter,” she said.

“I had a difficult pregnancy, but I made it through, and I have such gratitude for the force that has been carrying me. We needed grace throughout this past year.

“Creating this show was a way of me filling up my cup. People asked me how I felt after the show, and I told them, 'content'. I was content even before the show started.”  

The SAFW autumn-winter collection featured 38 designers with a runway return of designer Gert-Johan Coetzee. Coetzee showcased his recent collection debut at London Fashion Week in September.