The guy’s guide to balding

Consulting a dermatologist or a medical aesthetic practitioner for early diagnosis and treatment can be more effective

Nokubonga Thusi Beauty editor
Actor Taye Diggs.
Actor Taye Diggs.
Image: Francois Durand/Getty Images 

Leave that hat at home and embrace the pate with our guide on navigating male-pattern baldness.

“Hair today, gone tomorrow” may be the motivational pun people use to remind themselves that hair grows back when mustering up the courage to experiment with a new hairstyle or go for the big chop, but for many men, the “gone” part is a fact of life.

From as early as the age of 20, men can show signs of male-pattern baldness, owing to a number of environmental, lifestyle, genetic, or hormonal factors. In a world of ever-changing hair trends and TikTok videos showing the power of a haircut on a man, not having hair can make you feel like you’re missing out.

Although it’s a natural and, at times, inevitable occurrence, some men can still feel ridiculed, prematurely old, and unconfident existing in the world completely bald. When male-pattern baldness sets in, the first instinct may be to hide it by wearing hats or start shaving a chiskop so that no one is any the wiser.

But the insecurity is still there and without information on its causes or advice on possible treatments to remedy the situation, can you truly embrace going bald? We chat to Dr Judey Pretorius, biomedical scientist and founder of Biomedical Emporium Skincare, about the causes of male-pattern baldness and new technologies to treat it.

What is the difference between how balding presents in men versus in women? Male-pattern baldness is believed to be largely influenced by inherited genes that make them more susceptible to the hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which weakens hair follicles and leads to hair loss.

Women can also experience hair thinning and balding, but it is less common and typically occurs because of different factors such as stress, hormonal changes, or medical conditions. Additionally, men generally have higher levels of DHT in their bodies, contributing to their increased likelihood of baldness. What are the main causes of balding, especially in younger men?

Younger men may struggle with baldness owing to genetic factors, stress, poor diet, hormone imbalances, or certain medical conditions.  What are some of the myths surrounding balding? 

Myth: Wearing hats or helmets can cause balding.

Image: Francois Durand/Getty Images 

Truth: Wearing hats or helmets does not directly cause balding. However, tight or ill-fitting hats can contribute to hair loss by causing traction alopecia.Myth: Balding is caused by frequent hair washing.

Truth: Washing your hair frequently does not cause hair loss. In fact, maintaining good hygiene can promote healthy hair growth. Also, refrain from using shampoos that contain sulphates.

Myth: Balding is inherited from the mother’s side. Truth: While genetics play a significant role in balding, it is not solely passed down from the mother’s side. Balding can be inherited from both parents.

Myth: Only men experience balding. Truth: While it is more common in men, women can also experience balding or thinning hair owing to various factors, such as hormonal imbalances, stress, and genetics.

Myth: Hair loss is always permanent. Truth: Hair loss can be temporary or permanent, depending on the cause. Some types of hair loss, such as telogen effluvium, or an inflamed scalp, can be reversed with proper treatment.

Are there cases where balding can be prevented? Preventing balding entirely is challenging, especially when it is driven by genetic and hormonal factors. However, several strategies and treatments can slow down hair loss and, in some cases, regrow hair.

Medication: Minoxidil (Rogaine) is a scheduled product that is suitable for both men and women. Finasteride (Propecia) is a prescription oral medication for men that reduces DHT levels. It is not recommended for women, especially those who are pregnant or may become pregnant.

Lifestyle change: A balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals, such as iron, vitamin D, biotin, Vitamin B12, and zinc, can support hair health. Chronic stress can contribute to hair loss, so techniques such as meditation, exercise, and sufficient sleep can help manage stress levels. Avoiding harmful hair practice by limiting the use of heat-styling tools, harsh chemicals, and tight hairstyles can prevent hair damage and breakage. Avoid hair products that contain sulphates.

Medical aesthetic treatments: Platelet-Rich Plasma Therapy involves injecting the patient’s own platelet-rich plasma into the scalp to stimulate hair growth. Low-Level Laser Therapy uses laser devices to stimulate hair follicles and promote hair growth.

Hair transplants: Follicular Unit Transplantation involves removing a strip of scalp and transplanting hair follicles to the thinning areas. Follicular Unit Extraction involves extracting individual hair follicles and transplanting them. Regular scalp care: Maintaining scalp health by regularly cleansing and massaging the scalp can improve blood circulation and follicle health.

Early intervention: Consulting a dermatologist or a medical aesthetic practitioner for early diagnosis and treatment can be more effective. A medical practitioner can recommend a tailored treatment plan based on the type and cause of hair loss.

Medicinal triggers: Avoid triggers such as medications like cortisone that can cause hair loss.

What are the latest treatments that can be useful in combatting balding?

Injectables and scalp-topical applications that contain hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, and niacinamide (vitamin B3). 

Hair:

5 dos and don’ts for a shap chiskop

Image: Francois Durand/Getty Images 

1. Do choose your tools wisely. When it comes to shaving your head, the question is always “clippers or blade”? A razor blade will provide a super-close and clean shave; however, commit to regular upkeep as hair regrowth after a close shave can cause ingrown hairs owing to the hair’s curl pattern. Go for clippers if you’re planning to shave more infrequently (weekly or bi-weekly). Clippers tend to be more forgiving on the scalp and produce fewer razor bumps and ingrown hairs as the shave is not as close, so the hair curl is less likely to grow out and coil back into the scalp.

2. Don’t use hair-removal creams without doing a patch test. Hair-removal creams specifically formulated for the scalp are great for maintaining a chiskop and provide a super-smooth result. However, always do a patch test on a small area of the scalp before applying to the entire head, to test for skin sensitivity or any adverse reactions to the product.

3. Do clean blades before every shave to avoid cross-contamination. Use methylated spirits for clippers and razor blades to kill bacteria that can cause skin infections and irritations.

4. Don’t ignore scalp irritations such as inflamed bumps, whiteheads or rashes. Take a short break from shaving and use soothing, barrier-restoring products that calm irritation and strengthen the scalp barrier before shaving again. If experiencing serious discomfort, consult a dermatologist for professional assistance.

5. Do invest in regular barber visits if you don’t enjoy the admin of shaving at home but still want to maintain a completely smooth chiskop. Professional barbers can ensure that you get a nick-free shave and monitor your scalp health.

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Bald celebrity icons

Image: Francois Durand/Getty Images 

Tips and tricks for embracing your bald era

Close shave: Take your cue from actor Taye Diggs and commit to being bald by going for regular clean shaves to maintain a smooth, even, hair-free appearance.

Beard gang: Whether you have a full beard, moustache or just a goatee, the coolest complement to a bald head is facial hair, as seen on rapper Common. Invest in a beard oil and regular trims to keep your beard hydrated, neat, and groomed.

Accessory armour: Don’t divert attention — rather take inspiration from street sartorialists and lean fully into your bald era. Use statement accessories such as sunglasses, reading glasses or earrings to create visual interest and complement facial features.

Vivid wash: Use your baldness as the perfect canvas for makeup, as seen on singer Nakhane. Go for simple yet striking eye looks that are perfect for male features, such as a single wash of eyeshadow or guy liner smudged into the waterline.