Gert-Johan Coetzee honoured to make London Fashion Week debut

Celebrity fashion designer and couturier Gert-Johan Coetzee further set his eyes on global stardom after making his debut at London Fashion Week (LFW) on Sunday.  

Coetzee was the African headliner at Vanity Hub Africa during LFW, hosted by British-Nigerian entrepreneur Ayobami Animashaun; where he sent a 22-piece collection down the runway of The Grand Connaught Devere, located in Covent Garden, London.

“I had the urge to have a collection, especially with all the success we have garnered in the US. I haven't shown at a fashion week in such a long time,” Coetzee told Sowetan before jetting off to London.

“My partner suggested I start designing the collection and the opportunity would come. I knew I wanted a collection and to showcase a collection at one of the global fashion weeks whether it be Paris, London, Milan or New York.

“I started making it with no place to show it and in June I got invited to LFW by Lady Ayobami who found my work and loved it. By chance, I was halfway through the collection. I’m honoured to be part of it."

Renowned for his show-stopping couture creations and cult-worthy ready designs, Coetzee locally has dressed everyone from Bonang Matheba to Lerato Kganyango and Thuli Madonsela.

Internationally, his exquisite designs have been seen on Hollywood A-listers such as Lizzo, Chloe Bailey, Oprah Winfrey and Kelly Rowland.

“It’s important for us to showcase to the world what we can do," he said.

"I have had international success on the red carpets of Hollywood; we are on the shopping list of A-listers in Hollywood like Oprah Winfrey and the Kardashians. It’s time to show the world what a GJC collection looks like. I am the only SA designer to be at London Fashion Week.”  

On the picturesque lawns at the Union Buildings, in Pretoria, Coetzee unveiled his collection to Sowetan in a private pre-photoshoot before the collection was packed up and jetted off to London a week later.  

“The building stands as a symbol of unity and the enduring spirit of SA. This collection draws deeply from the essence of SA, reflecting its vibrant cultures, resilient spirit and shared heritage,” he said.

Coetzee said they were granted special permission from sports, arts and culture minister Gayton McKenzie to shoot on the lawns. McKenzie later made an appearance on set.   

“What I love most about the collection is the beadwork. The cowrie shell jacket is full of meaning and took about eight months to make," Coetzee said.

"The silhouettes of elephants beaded onto the pants, there is an entire coat made of it. I’ve used my belts as cuffs at the bottom as details. We have woven our fabrics if you look at our trench, that is my 'I love the elephant' and it represents my mascot. I have woven it into a camo-print which I love." 

Statuesque in Coetzee's one-of-a-kind creations, TikTok dance crew, A-Squad, pose elegantly. In between shoots, the 10-member teenage dance group catch up on their daily lives and immediate chatter plus laughter vibrates throughout the historic grounds. Swaying back and forth in platform heels, the squad is careful not to undo the handcrafted cowrie shells tunic and 3D-printed corsets. There is also a tent dress.    

The members of A-Squad are Nolwazi Masango, Remmone Maltese, Paballo Magorose, Rati Makaleng, Mamello Motsamai, Khanyisile Zwane, Mbali Magidela, Tiisetsi Boshielo, Omphile Mona and Paleasa Nkosi. They are all schoolmates. 

“The name of our TikTok account was something we thought about. We had done a TikTok account before and the school said we should delete it because of the negative comments. When we opened it again, we asked ourselves what we should call it and we were like A-squad," they said.   

After garnering an impressive one-million views on one of their videos, the school requested that they delete their second account as it poses a safety risk to them and fellow learners.    

“We did not expect the account to trend. We just opened an account and joined a challenge, and we got into trouble for it. The school wanted us to delete the A-Squad account too. We understood where the school was coming from," said Mona. 

“Now we are careful. For example, we blackout our school emblem, so we don’t expose other kids and for their safety. We are not even allowed to mention the name of the school,” added Motsamai.

The group loved every moment of modelling for Coetzee.

“Working with Gert was also an incredible opportunity. He is energetic, checks up on us and respects our schedules and that we are still school kids,” said Masango.  

Magidela added: “He made sure the makeup they used was good for our skin and we were not too sensitive. Even the hair, matched it closely to our natural hair colour. He kept changing it."

Coetzee’s collection will be showcased to the local fashion audience at SA Fashion Week in September.