Man, it’s been getting chilly of late, and your skin and hair are probably starting to feel a little drier, more reactive or more sensitive than usual.

As the season changes, your skin is bound to act up and become dull and tight, while breakouts may become more frequent. So, when temperatures drop, it’s time to bolster the skin’s barrier defences and increase hydration.

Since our South African winters can vary from warm to cold — often multiple times in one day — your skin may have to deal with a range of environmental aggressors and temperatures. 

“The predominant environmental triggers for skin disturbance are referred to as ‘particulate matter’,” says Dr Bradley Wagemaker, medical director at Lamelle Research Laboratories.

“These are microscopic particles that are found suspended in the air… and are absorbed into our bloodstream, as well as through our skin, and trigger a cascade of harmful responses in our body. As far as skin is concerned, this presents with a 20% greater risk of hyperpigmentation (dark marks), as well as accelerated ageing.

Inflammation, the cornerstone of skin breakouts, is significantly enhanced by particulate matter. The good news is that there are products available that are able to combat these particles in the skin.”  

So, before you hunker down this winter, make sure that your skin and hair are taken care of and protected from everything the season throws at it.

Skin: Winter game plan

Your grooming routine’s main focus should be on helping the skin retain as much moisture as possible, as well as avoiding any skin sensitivity or flareups caused by environmental aggressors.

1. Exfoliate frequently to slough off dead skin cells and help with better product absorption. However, avoid over-exfoliation — once a week should be more than enough — and opt for chemical exfoliators with AHAs rather than physical exfoliators such as granular facial scrubs, as they are too rough.  
2. Prevent skin dehydration with hyaluronic-acid-rich serums and moisturisers that will help draw water into the skin cells, stimulate the production of collagen, and keep the skin hydrated. For on-the-go hydration, invest in a hyaluronic-acid facial mist.
3. Treat pigmentation, dark marks or post-acne scarring in winter as you spend less time outdoors and experience minimal sun exposure, so the skin has time to repair. Use a spot treatment at night and rely on vitamin C and gentle retinol serums to help inhibit pigmentation development and increase cell turnover.
4. Swop out lightweight gel formulas for richer cream formulas (especially in terms of moisturisers) that will deeply hydrate the skin and create a layer of moisture on it.  
5. Mix some facial oil into your moisturiser for added hydration. Look for facial oils with ingredients such as jojoba oil, evening primrose oil, or squalane to help prevent transdermal water loss.
6. Apply sunscreen religiously, even when it’s cold. It’s easy to underestimate the need for sunscreen but, regardless of whether the sun is out or hiding behind some cloud cover, UV rays, especially UVA, can still damage the skin.
7. Slather on a moisture-locking lip balm to keep the delicate skin of the lips hydrated, and throw in a hydrating eye cream for good measure.

Hair: Beard and scalp

Thanks to the pandemic years, many men have joined the beard gang and have renewed their membership well into the year, so beard care will have to take priority come winter.

1. Use a beard wash or cleansing conditioner to gently cleanse beard hair. This not only removes any build-up of dirt and bacteria caused by sweating, pollutants, and product but also helps to prevent the skin from becoming dry, sensitive, or irritated. A dirty beard is an unhappy beard, so it’s crucial that you make washing your beard a daily habit.
2. Beard oil is a must to keep facial hair in top shape. You might not think that beards warrant any more care than a regular trim at the barber but, just like the hair on your head, beards need to be moisturised, washed, and groomed on a daily basis. Massage a few drops of beard oil in circular motions into the beard after cleansing to help soften the hair, increase moisture, and stimulate blood circulation.
3. Use a wooden beard comb to brush the beard hair into a groomed shape and keep it looking healthy and shiny. Beard brushing is not only a great way of distributing oils through the hair but also helps to promote healthy hair growth.
4. Reduce hair washes during winter and rather alternate with a cleansing conditioner to avoid breakage and stripping hair of moisture.
5. Scalp oil is key when it comes to haircare. A healthy scalp results in healthy hair, so make sure to massage a nourishing oil into the scalp to improve blood circulation and promote growth.

Acting up

Dr Bradley Wagemaker on how to combat adult acne that’s the result of stress and the effects of environmental aggressors

What are some of the main causes of adult acne in men, and how does it differ from that seen in women? The four fundamental triggers for the development of acne are the same in men, women and teenagers, namely excess sebum production, follicular infection, blockage of the pore, and inflammation. The differences between men and women may be aggravating elements for some of these factors, such as higher androgen levels in early adulthood, shaving and skin irritation, excess chafing from straps, ingrown hairs, etc. 

What are the different types of acne and how would you recommend treating them? Acne can present in different forms of severity, and although these are all referred to as acne vulgaris, the early comedo (blackhead) looks less severe than a large inflammatory nodule. The global aim of acne management is to ultimately reduce the inflammation of the follicle and avoid the risk of scarring and hyperpigmentation. Examples of therapies that are effective in achieving this include salicylic acid, tea tree oil, niacinamide, glycolic acid, and sulphur-containing compounds. These are presented in a number of formulations and bases to suit individual preferences. The key to successful acne management and the number-one strategy for a successful outcome is consistency — adopting an effective routine and sticking with it.

What are some the acne myths that need to be debunked? The most common misconception is that acne skin should be left to “dry out”. Skin that has an impaired barrier is even more prone to inflammation and hence the potential worsening of the acne condition. Using light gel creams or gels is the safest way to keep the skin barrier intact and inflammation at bay. The daily use of a suitable skin product will in itself keep the skin healthier and potentially less prone to breakouts.