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A smiley makes hard work pay off

Mampine Leoka, right, and Puleng Matsipe use fire to remove fur from sheep heads in Mapetla, Soweto.
Mampine Leoka, right, and Puleng Matsipe use fire to remove fur from sheep heads in Mapetla, Soweto.
Image: Bafana Nzimande

When darkness settles, around 20 women line up along a busy street in Soweto to make a living for their families, armed with a cooked delicacy - sheep head.

Puleng Matsipe, a mother of four, has been in the business for more than a decade, and the money she earns on the street is the sole source of income for her family.

She sells cooked sheep heads, popularly known as "smiley" or "skopo". This is a favourite township delicacy, especially for over-indulgers seeking a hangover "cure".

"I've been selling skopo for more than 10 years. I was a domestic worker, but I lost my job around the year 2000.

"I couldn't find another job, until I saw a group of ladies selling skopo, and I joined them so I can pay for my children's education," said Matsipe, as she prepared for the weekend night shift.

The women operate on Manotshe Street in Mapetla from 6pm until the following morning.

Their earnings are most lucrative in the evenings from Wednesday to Sunday - thanks to nearby taverns and pubs. They're frequented by revellers who, after a few drinks, stop at Matsipe's stall to purchase skopo laced with chilli powder and spices.

The head is split in two - each half costs R30, and Matsipe makes close to R500 on a good weekend.

But the preparation process is laborious. The women first have to burn and remove fur from the heads. Once cooked, the items are placed in a big pot or bucket, that will be placed in a trolley and dragged to the busy route frequented by revellers at night.

"We don't sleep much. We spend most of the time on the pavement. During the day we have to get stock from town, then cut items into portions before cooking it for hours," said Mampine Leoka from Tladi.

Their business is facing stiff competition from pavement traders offering braaied chicken feet, which cost less.

"Some ladies have decided to sell both skopo and chicken feet to remain in business. Skopo has more profit than chicken feet. It's wise to have them both, because you can never predict what customers want," said Tapile Mofokeng, another single mother who makes a living on the side of the road.

Chicken feet cost a mere R1. But many customers, like Hosea Mothei from Chiawelo, still prefer skopo.

Mothei said he enjoyed eating the sheep's brain, tongue and eyes.

"The brain is my favourite part. It tastes like cheese. I usually have it with pap, then down it with a cold beer. I love it," said Mothei.

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